"There have been roughly three versions of Wuli Wuli. The first was as a small Camberwell secret, with an additional menu saying ‘Sichuan dishes’ in Mandarin, selling the type of fire and brimstone, blood and guts dishes that got South London hearts racing, back in late 2010. The second version was a reaction to Silk Road’s success: it reduced the Sichuanese output and added biang biang noodles, the food became less spicy and more rustic. This lasted roughly up until the pandemic when it changed again. Now it’s is more or less back to exclusively Sichuanese food but the menu is massively reduced, the food is quieter and more homely, with simple but effective quick-fry dishes like lamb and cumin; satisfyingly chewy chaoshou dumplings in red oil; and northern-style braises, like an excellent rendition of di san xian’s aubergine, green pepper and potatoes crawling with star anise. Get the cold saliva chicken to take away and it will provide a good three lunches for the week, either on rice or, best of all, in a sandwich." - Jonathan Nunn