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"I saw that Once offers a Peruvian Nikkei dining experience at the Grand Canal Shoppes; its name is pronounced "on-seh" and means "eleven," symbolizing Zarate’s spot among 13 siblings. The concept leans into the numbers theme (there are 11 cocktails, including a gin and tonic made with a “slushee” machine) and the dining room is designed to mimic Peru with a rustic interior featuring floor-to-ceiling living plant walls, Edison lighting, seating for 160, and a patio with five large communal tables surrounded by plants; the only overt nod to Vegas is a neon green welcome sign. The restaurant took over the former Table 10 space vacated by Emeril Lagasse, and Zarate workshopped the idea during a 2015 pop-up in Santa Monica—this opening follows his recent Rosaliné in West Hollywood and builds on his Lima-born pedigree and accolades (Food & Wine Best New Chef 2011 and four James Beard nominations)." - Susan Stapleton
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