"Adejoké Bakare’s Chishuru is at the centre of its street on Market Row in Brixton, so the outdoor tables, while unheated, are rarely drafty. Her faultless hospitality delivers dishes like chicken gizzards with citrus, chilli, and plantain; bavette steak with yaji; and goat ayamase with a prickly green sauce. One of the most outstanding openings of 2020." - Adam Coghlan, James Hansen