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"A relaxed, high-quality sushi bar from Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee’s Scratch Restaurants, this spot lets you choose your own adventure—keep it moderate or splurge—while showcasing fish flown in weekly from Tokyo’s famed Toyosu Market, and the quality shows. The concept is culled from Lee’s youth discovering sushi along Ventura Boulevard in Los Angeles. Omakase ($145) brings three appetizers, three sashimi, five nigiri, a baller handroll loaded with toro, uni, caviar, black truffle, and fresh wasabi, plus three desserts; a la carte, skip the wagyu and get the toro instead—$16 for two pieces of nigiri or a handroll, and $32 for five pieces of sashimi—the fatty tuna melts like ice cream on a July sidewalk and impresses more than wagyu in a small bite. Save room for desserts from Kallas-Lee: the bon bon of matcha, makrut lime, white chocolate, and shortbread finished with sesame is sharp and sweet with floral lime notes, and it pairs with the matcha affogato. The bar pours Kirin from a special two-spout kegerator from Japan that separates beer and foam, yielding a thick head and a pour that tastes as creamy as a bock yet drinks as light as a Michelob Ultra. Getting in can be rough: there are only 20 seats and no reservations, but the online waitlist goes live at 5 p.m.; add your name via the website or Instagram, await a text, and you’ll have 10 minutes to claim your table." - H. Drew Blackburn