"This is a proper, old-fashioned, square-cut tiramisù, of the kind found in provincial pizzerias circa 1994, i.e. the best kind. It’s of a piece with Pastaio’s gleefully gluttonous, edginess-be-damned ethos: elsewhere on the menu there are prosecco slushies, a fried mozzarella, ‘nduja and honey sandwich, and a whopping great sharing bowl of six-hour beef shin reginette." - Emma Hughes