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"Recalled fondly as an example of early, hands-on, chef-driven dining, this original burger shop is invoked as a benchmark against a growing problem: absentee name-brand chefs who rarely work the line despite being promoted as the main attraction. Commenters complained that some high-profile cooks act as if serving diners is a favor and urged chefs to return to the kitchen and demonstrate the talent that first won them fans, rather than delegating cooking while keeping the spotlight." - Beth McKibben