"This svelte neighbourhood restaurant, once the late Princess Diana’s favourite, has had an unexpectedly turbulent last couple of years due to changing personnel, but ex-Woodford chef Ben Murphy has got things back on track. Murphy’s playful menu has done away with its draughts-esque presentation, but the playful spirit at the heart of his cooking remains. Examples might include glazed cod with radish, rose, and nori and coriander oil; or rabbit stuffed with rabbit mousse and foie gras." - Alexander Larman, Adam Coghlan