Henry S.
Yelp
"Diana ate here. A lot." This is a quote from The Guardian's review of Launceston Place. It is 10 minutes from Kensington Palace, and the warren of small dining rooms does make it easier to be discreet. Since Diana, the restaurant has been revamped, and now helmed by chef Tristan Welch. Launceston Place was a fitting finale to my week of culinary delights in London.
The restaurant is done up in moody, sultry tones. It is mostly hushed, with a battalion of staff hovering with intent, ready to cater to one's whims. The furnishings and setting are ultra luxe without being grandiose. After settling in, we were presented with an amuse bouche of potato crisps. These were meticulously punched out in the middle (I mean perfect circles), and tied together with a black satin ribbon bearing the restaurant's name. It was a tad precious for my taste, but if that is their kind of attention to detail, I'm all for it.
We decided on a bottle of 2005 Teresa Manara negroamaro, from Salento, in anticipation of the red meat we'd picked for our mains. So to start, Wild Sea Trout, Isle of Wright Tomatoes, Pickled Cucumber, Basil; and Pea and Home Cured Ham Tartlet. The trout was slightly smoked, and the veggies supplemented the freshness of the dish. For the tart, beneath ribbons of ham, the peas were a coarse spread over a butter cracker. Both were light, but extremely flavorful. For mains, we had Rose Veal Rump, Nettles, Pickled Mushrooms; and Denham Castle Lamb, Charlotte Potatoes, Wild Garlic. If you're anti-veal, please stop reading now. All I can say is, if there is meat like this everyday, I will gladly eat it everyday. The pickled mushrooms were a pleasant surprise, bringing a jolt to the meltingly tender meat. The lamb had 2 preparations. A few pieces of loin seared medium rare, resting on top of a mound of braised lamb. The flavor was absolutely intense, and the garlic and potatoes just brought it to another level. For intermezzo, Pimm's gelee covered with a blanket of lemon granita. Hmmm, I must attempt this at home.
For pudding, English Strawberries, Lavender Set Cream, Shortbread, Nyetimber Sparkling Wine. This was an English trifle in a glass. The sparkling wine, in gelee form, was a pleasant introduction to the layers of sweetness underneath. The other pudding was Warm Smoked Dark Chocolate and Laphroiag Whiskey Ice Cream. My partner thought this was too aggressive, but I completely loved it. I wavered on whether all the woodsy-ness was going to be overpowering, but in the end, it worked. The ganache was luscious, with hints of smokiness on every bite. The whiskey ice cream was just genius. Chocolate, cream, alcohol, wood on wood. Amen.
Why 5 stars? Service is absolute perfection. The surroundings are serene and very discreet. The food is very inventive and delicious, yet very approachable. If I live in London, I would also eat here. A lot.