"As the name suggests, pork takes center stage at this compact ramen joint above a grocery store (seriously, it’s tiny – if your group is bigger than two, head to the Fremont location). Chef Chong Boon Ooi’s nontraditional approach is exemplified in the signature mala kotteri ramen, which is topped with lush, tender char siu and crunchy browned garlic chips. Rock-solid ramen fundamentals – noodles with a satisfying bite and a silky broth with real heft – make for a strong foundation for the dish’s more unconventional flourishes. Treat the spice scale with a healthy respect here, and get a light beer or three to carry you through the exquisite waves of salt and mouth-numbing heat." - Sophie Grossman