Virtue in Hyde Park Ode to Black Southern Cooking | Eater Chicago

"On bustling 53rd Street, this Hyde Park restaurant from James Beard Award–winning chef Erick Williams and Emerging Chef award recipient Damarr Brown is an ode to the creativity, generosity, and enduring legacy of Black Southern culture, told through memorable dishes like creamy mac and cheese and fall-apart short ribs. The blend of music, kitchen buzz, and conversation forms a melody of its own, and paired with food that feeds both the tongue and the soul, it has a way of making even the hardest days softer and the brightest ones shine brighter. The short rib steals the show: a base of rich onion gravy topped with buttery mashed potatoes and creamed spinach is crowned with meat so tender it’s almost falling apart, then finished with crispy onion rings — on a cold Chicago night, it’s like a hug for your insides. Cornbread arrives sizzling with a melting scoop of honey butter, and the peach cobbler brings layers of thick, buttery crust, caramelized edges, and peaches tangled with cinnamon and cream. The sorrel fizz from the zero-proof menu tastes like sweet tea with a tart hibiscus kick — the ideal pairing for Southern comfort food. As I sat at my table, the woman next to me whispered to her friend, “I’d come here alone,” after dipping her spoon into the warm belly of her cinnamon apple bread pudding — and I understood exactly what she meant. The dining room is all low lights and warm wood with an ideal head-nod soundtrack of Stevie Wonder, Etta James, and old-school R&B, and through tall windows Hyde Park glows. Best for date night or celebrating the big and small wins of the week, it’s also a superb spot for a solo dinner; if visiting on the weekend, grab a Spothero or an Uber since parking is limited." - Tajah Ware