"One of the biggest, if low-key, restaurant opening of the year, which has avoided the sort of over-hype one might expect for a chef, Johnny Lake and sommelier Isa Bal, who worked at the three-Michelin-starred Fat Duck in Bray for a decade. Trivet is not cheap, but it is refreshingly informal, smart, and accomplished, even if it might, in time, realise that London is receptive to a little more culinary derring do. At the moment, it is safely delicious, demonstrating self-assurance in the likes of Anglo-Franco roast chicken with vinegar sauce, a Middle-Eastern-meets-East-Asian inspired medley of scallops, sesame, pomegranate, and pickled buddha’s hand; and a Japanese-French dessert of layered potato puff pastry with sake and white chocolate cream, and sake and butter ice cream. It also has one of the most interesting and ambitious wine lists in the city — not wedded to the old-school, nor over-excited about the popularity of newer, fashionable low-intervention styles. “Agnostic,” says Bal. Wine, he says, just needs to be “good.” Expect this restaurant to grow into the new year." - Adam Coghlan