"Shawarma is having a moment in Los Angeles, spurred on by spots in the San Fernando Valley and South Bay strip malls, specifically. It’s easy to understand why, given the ubiquity of the dish globally and its ability to pack big flavors into small bites. But there is no one in LA doing shawarma quite like Avi Cue, the master of the wagyu spit. Right now, his meaty pita sandwiches may just be the best bite of food anywhere in LA. Owner Aviad Yalin’s Studio City strip mall space — really just a light refresh of a closed Tacos 1986 location — hums during the day with chatting customers and the pulsing background sounds of feel-good Israeli music. A small line tends to form just before the doors open at noon, with diners peeking through the glass to watch the spit in action. It rotates slow and purposefully, glimmering in some places with fat and offering dark brown patches in others. Yalin, thin and smiley and usually wearing a T-shirt that reads “Relax! It’s wagyu,” mans the layers of meat — electric shaver in hand. His team packs the ribbons of beef into warm half-pitas, serving sandwiches the way Yalin intends: heavily spiced and with only tomato, onion, and parsley tucked inside. Tahini and amba sauces line the top, giving creaminess and zip to the whole thing. Even though the pita sandwiches are served on those zigzag metal taco holder things, they’re rarely put down between bites, lest a bit of meat sprinkle out from an open edge. At Avi Cue, every bite counts." - Farley Elliott
