"An industry darling that counts Marina O’Loughlin, Fay Maschler, and Fergus Henderson among its admirers, London’s oldest French restaurant is thriving against all odds. The decor is pure Café René and the service can verge on resentful during rush hour, but if a break from the new-opening merry-go-round is in order, this is where to head. The classics are all present and correct: coq au vin, duck à l’orange, steak tartare, shoestring fries, peas with bacon and cream, profiteroles and coffee eclairs." - Emma Hughes