"Delmonico’s has been getting its footing since late last year, when it reopened after a three-year shutter during COVID, followed by a ferocious battle over ownership. The chef is Edward J. Hong. The Delmonico steak ($79), weighing in at 18 ounces, was one of the best I’ll see in my lifetime. Lobster Newberg ($59) is a modest specimen in an agreeable bath of cream, cognac, and lobster coral. Chicken a la Keene ($44), supposedly invented by Ranhofer in 1881 and named after Foxhall Parker Keene. Baked Alaska ($24) is another dish attributed to Delmonico’s, set aflame with a thimbleful of brandy as it arrives. Today’s version of the hamburger, available only in the bar and at lunch, is $35, made from wagyu." - Robert Sietsema
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