"Eric Sze and Andy Chuang, the duo behind 886, a casual stir-fry shop in the East Village, continue to spread the gospel of Taiwan’s diverse foodways. Wenwen is the more elegant of the two restaurants but it shares the same boozy DNA as 886, especially with upscale riffs on Long Island ice tea highballs. Line up early when Wenwen opens for the BDSM chicken (the birds sell out quickly), or drop by later for numbing celtuce with Sichuan pepper, crispy fried tofu with garlic-soy paste, and the popcorn chicken makes a nice dupe if you can’t snag the BDSM version." - Emma Orlow