
5

"At the Crown in Oakland, operated by Royal Coffee, I saw 16-ounce coffees are en vogue; creative director Evan Gilman told me it’s only a rarity in San Francisco because of a boom in hand-made coffee about 15 years ago and explained, "It’s like the slow food movement," where "form follows function"—if customers demand 16-ounce coffees, shops would move toward batch brew, whereas connoisseurship favors pour-over and smaller brew devices." - Paolo Bicchieri