"The best version I found, and one still going strong, is that of John's Deli, which lies at the busy corner of Stillwell Avenue and 86th Street in Gravesend, a little over a mile north of the Coney Island subway station. The compact place, around since 1968, offers dozens upon dozens of hot and cold heroes, and other Italian and Sicilian specialties, many of them fried. But pride of place on the menu still goes to 'Johnny roastbeef' (nine-inch hero, $11.50)." - Robert Sietsema