"In Nicoise dialect, “baieta” is the term for a little kiss. It’s also the name of young chef Julia Sedefdjian’s new restaurant in the Latin Quarter, and the word’s tender resonances come through in her very personal take on the cooking of Nice, her hometown, and Provence. One of the most rapidly rising chefs in Paris, Sedefdjian, 23, has been cooking since she was 17, and here she’s teamed up with two Martiniquais friends, Sébastien Jean-Joseph and Grégory Anelka, to create a place that’s hip — the black-and-white drawing on the wall is by their favorite tattoo artist — and relaxed, but impeccably professional in terms of both cuisine and service. Try Sedefdjian’s signature dishes: the jaune d’oeuf croustillante, a runny egg yolk inside of breadcrumb sphere, and the bouillabaieta, Sedefdjian’s delicate, deconstructed version of bouillabaisse. Or go for the caramelized pork belly with celery root puree, peanuts, and an herby green sauce; and the chef’s modern take on a classic cod with aioli and vegetables. Don’t miss the fennel shortbread with lemon cream, whipped mascarpone, lemon sorbet, and pastis for dessert, either." - Alexander Lobrano