


69

"Technically two restaurants in Queen Village, this spot pairs a casual, walk-in-only izakaya up front with a hidden back room where eight-time James Beard–nominated chef Jesse Ito helms an eight-seat, L-shaped omakase counter serving a 15-course, seasonally rotating tasting anchored by exemplary nigiri. The $350 omakase — the only option — recently featured bibimbap with nori-butter rice and assorted fish; dry-aged fatty bluefin tuna nigiri crowned with Osetra caviar; live scallop nigiri; and an artistic tartlet topped with caviar, salmon, fatty bluefin tuna, and yuzu cream. A third of the tri-fold menu lists optional add-ons; yes, you do want the $32 piece of wagyu: a melt-in-your-mouth, galbi-marinated A5 Miyazaki ribeye, and you should add Itosan’s tamago — the sweet egg omelet made by Ito’s father — as the ideal cap to a flawless meal. While the izakaya is dark (sometimes “phone flashlight on to read the menu” dark) and moody, the back room is brighter and quieter, and with only eight seats you may leave with a new friend or two (including chef Ito). This is the hardest reservation to book in Philly — I tried every night for a year and a half, at midnight exactly — so set a Resy notify for rare last-minute openings; if you nab a seat, your server may even offer to make your next pre-paid reservation for three to four months out. If you can’t get into the omakase, you’re not settling: sit at the izakaya bar and order a few rolls, like the Bloc Party and Aka-Taka." - Zoe Becker