

65

"A steadfast Old Hollywood time capsule along Santa Monica Boulevard, this 17-table red-sauce joint that opened in 1964 became a celebrity magnet after a 1966 Los Angeles Times review, shifting from quiet nights to more than 200 covers and keeping the kitchen open until 1 a.m. for late-night martinis and pasta. The menu remains largely unchanged — veal Parmesan, chicken marsala, New York steak, and a table-side Caesar salad — and the chicken Parmesan is still one of the best in the city, even if not all the food is memorable for the right reasons. Fans embrace the timeless Italian American fare and plates named after famous regulars, while detractors scoff at celebrity-riddled booths. Inside the little yellow bungalow, tuxedoed servers, checkered tablecloths, and phone-only reservations penciled into a thick date book preserve the pre-modern ritual; cross the threshold and the outside world seems to disappear, and the room still fills every night." - Rebecca Roland