"If the vast grill at Shashlik House is a piano and the 30 simultaneously smoking skewers are keys, then chef-owner Suhrob Mullojonov is the maestro, in charge of knowing exactly when to play each note. The popular beef roll, for instance, is a whirl of thinly sliced red T-bone steak and white lamb fat that almost resembles a peppermint candy. It has to be grilled so that the beef achieves a soft uniform doneness as the fat drizzles over it and crisps up just so. The beef lula –an amalgam of ground beef, onion, and lamb fat – and lamb ribs are also hits. In traditional Uzbek style, the skewers, simply seasoned with salt and pepper, are served with raw onions and a garlicky tomato sauce for dipping. The original Kensington-based Shashlik House has a Midwood outpost." - Caroline Shin
