The 38 Best California Restaurants, Mapped | Eater
"WHAT: A reverie of a California-Italian trattoria, complete with an oven in which oak logs crackle, a dining room lined with brick and mixed woods, and a menu that includes some of the most exquisite pastas made in the country — if not the world. WHY: Michael Tusk is San Francisco’s pasta savant. He and wife Lindsay Tusk also spotlight his dough mastery at Quince, their hushed tasting-menu sanctuary next door. But Cotogna, with its humming, rustic atmosphere and its menu that reads like a “what’s in season” checklist on a Bay Area farmers market website, is the upstart sibling. Gild the meal with a crackery pizza and dishes like baby shrimp with avocado and little gems dressed with green goddess, sardines with green garlic salsa verde, and lemon verbena sherbet with peaches and green gage plums. But know that you’re really here for the superlative pastas, especially the ridged, rectangular agnolotti del plin (filled with rabbit, veal, vegetables, and Grana Padano), the silky ravioli with farm egg and brown butter, and fluttery tagliatelle ensnaring Dungeness crab. Dinnertime is wonderful; this is also easily my favorite place for lunch in SF. — B.A." - Bill Addison
