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"A green sign off Hollywood Boulevard and Cherokee Avenue signals your arrival at a 105-year-old time capsule where flattering light, red leather banquettes, and old-Hollywood spirit meet steaks, strong drinks, and gossip. Since 1919, locals and industry types have packed the room, and with a prime rib in front of you it feels plausible that Marilyn Monroe or Charlie Chaplin could slide into the booth across the way. Start with the rib-eye or prime rib, cooked over an indoor charcoal grill that’s been burning since 1927, and don’t skip green peppercorn sauce and a side of creamed spinach; balance the salt and smoke with a wedge salad, the mid-century stuffed celery piped with Roquefort mousse, or the seafood chiffonade salad tossed in citrusy dressing and piled with shrimp, lobster, and crab. The martini is mandatory, delivered theatrically in a beautiful glass with a chilled sidecar—gin or vodka, olives or twist, your call. Pageantry matters here: uniformed waiters and bartenders in white or red jackets, their tenure embroidered on their cuffs, move with intent as they drop baked escargot, crab Louie, filet of sand dabs, and an expertly cooked prime rib. Walk in past the retro car-filled parking lot, glimpses of the loud kitchen, and slightly faded chandeliers, sconces, and 1930s art, and settle in for old-school Hollywood charm; if a newbie gripes about peeling wallpaper or a lack of new dishes, a perfectly stirred martini tends to quiet the din. It’s best for dressing up (or not) for birthdays, celebrating promotions with free-flowing alcohol and high-cholesterol foods—maybe an ice cream sundae—or showing your parents a cool side of Hollywood, plus celebrity-spotting without bouncers, lines, or influencers. Pro tip: ask about Club 1919, a low-key membership tied to your phone number that rewards periodic discounts once you hit certain spend thresholds—handy if you’re returning or planning to drop $500 with a group." - Hilary Pollack