"A nearly decade-old staple of Somerville’s Davis Square, izakaya and soba shop Sugidama recently rejoined the restaurant scene after a nearly yearlong hiatus while the spot moved down the block. The shiny, light-filled space is a calm, cozy respite where diners can dig into some of the best soba around Boston. The snappy buckwheat noodles are excellent, and Sugidama’s signature umami-rich broth is a smoky, savory delight. An array of sushi, donburi, and yakitori fill out the menu. Must-try dish: The sukiyaki soba, with beef, tofu, scallions, enoki mushrooms, and a poached egg, is the best starting point for first-timers." - Erika Adams