
6

"After closing its Jefferson Park location in March, I found Sassafras American Eatery has relocated to the Highland neighborhood, taking over the former Solitaire space at 3927 W. 32nd Ave. The new spot occupies two adjoining houses with multiple brick-walled dining rooms and a sprawling patio: the first room off the entrance features a lantern-filled fireplace and a long table for larger parties, with the bar toward the back; a hallway splits the house with plant-covered windows that give diners views inside, and a corridor lined with windows fitted with two-tops opens to a wider area with larger tables that leads to an outdoor patio. Upstairs, a library seats extra guests and there's a rooftop patio with an outdoor fireplace for extra nighttime ambiance. The drink program includes a bloody Mary flight of four signature cocktails—the Bloody Maria (house-infused sweet pepper and pineapple tequila with roasted chilies, red tomatoes, and a Cajun spice blend), the Garden Mary (house-infused garlic-dill vodka with red tomatoes, celery, parsley, green onions, and fresh garlic), the Queen Mary (house-infused pickled pepper vodka with green tomatoes, pineapple, green peppers, and serrano hot sauce), and the St. Mary (house-infused bacon vodka with smoked tomatoes and Cajun seasonings)—plus a Lavender Lemonade made with lavender simple syrup and house-made lemonade and a Hurricane with charred citrus rum and a blend of passion fruit, pineapple, lime, and orange juices. Menu highlights include chicken fried eggs and buffalo hash with free-range buffalo smoked over pecan wood, six-minute eggs, and jalapeño cornbread topped with Fresno chili Hollandaise; a barbecue pulled pork slider with pulled pork in spicy Carolina barbecue sauce topped with potato salad and Sassafras pickle chips on a brioche bun; an oyster BLT slider with spicy cornmeal-crusted oysters, crispy bacon, arugula, and sun-dried tomato vinaigrette on a brioche bun; a green tomato slider of spicy cornmeal-battered green tomatoes and arugula on brioche; a crispy fried chicken confit served on a bed of collard greens mixed with pork alongside potato salad and a piece of jalapeño cornbread; and a chicken and andouille gumbo with house-made andouille sausage, local chicken breast, and dark roux served with white rice." - Susan Stapleton