
4
"On opening day I watched the wood-fired stove and chef’s counter come to life at Radici, an Italian reboot from Derry and Foley: focaccia is warmed in an iron skillet and arrives as a perfect square topped with Maldon smoked sea salt, confit garlic, rosemary, and fresh herbs; a suppli al telefono follows in a classic Roman style with chicken liver, pork sausage, and pomodoro sauce and a stretchy mozzarella center; coniglio alla gricia is served with braised rabbit in a pecorino- and guanciale-based sauce; a whole branzino is grilled over the fire; and the pollo alla griglia features humanely raised Green Circle Chicken, a chicken jus poured over panzanella, and Shef seasoning. Servers were trained to guide family-style ordering and pronunciation, sous chefs helped develop recipes (many at Derry’s home), and the kitchen’s wood-fired elements and chef’s counter structure the dining experience." - Courtney E. Smith