"There was the germ of a good idea at Gab’s, dressing a fatty pork rib ($34) with Mexican chiles, but somehow the idea went awry. The sodden wads of kale weighed the dish down, making it damp and bitter, while the salsa negra was grimly grainy and wept red oil. And the charred lemons were an unnecessary distraction from what had previously been a good piece of meat." - Robert Sietsema