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"Opened by restaurateur Cody Pruitt of Libertine, this Greenwich Village modern French spot pairs old-world glam with contemporary polish: velvet banquettes, white tablecloths, and minimalist blank walls. I like the split setup — a more relaxed first-floor bar, but the proper dining room upstairs is where you go to feel special — and it’s high-end, with entrees starting around $40. Order the duck à l’orange, crisp-skinned slices in a savory citrus sauce of calamansi, bergamot, and blood orange; the filet au poivre, a small yet substantial peppered steak atop classic au poivre (get fries to drag through the sauce); and the simple, rich foie gras au torchon with toast and a cherry condiment — also great smeared on those fries. Drinks run $17 to $25; the martini from the rolling cocktail cart is a fun gimmick you can feel rumbling around the room, and the very dirty gin martini is particularly intense. It’s fancy-feeling without being stuffy — the kind of place where a jacket and a baseball cap won’t feel out of place — and tall folks should mind the low ceiling on the stairway up to the second-floor dining room." - Nadia Chaudhury