"This three-year-old restaurant is isolated from the hip Jersey City dining scene, and boasts a flashy interior featuring a grand piano and massive sparkling chandeliers that look like floating galaxies. The menu offers a mix of Sichuan and Hunan cuisine — the former just so-so, the latter spectacular. The fish head is a gigantic production with enough flesh for three or more; the century egg and eggplant served in a mortar with enough green chiles to blow the top of your head off; and the scallion fried rice is mellow enough to counteract the spicy flavors. A new, equally good branch is now open on St. Marks in the East Village." - Robert Sietsema