"There are many reasons for the small plate explosion, but deep down people know the starter/main course/dessert paradigm is clapped and what everyone secretly wants from a menu is a succession of snacks. Enter Kaipiras by Barraco, a Brazilian boteco bar tucked away on a back street in Kilburn. All the best things are in the starter section: mandioca frita, fat chips of cassava that make a mockery of every fried potato pretender; torresmo, undersold on the menu as pork scratchings but in reality crisped hunks of fried pork belly, fat fluffed up and creamy; and calabreza acebolada, Brazilian sausages and onions that arrive shaking and sizzling in the pan. This is perfect drinking food, to be guzzled down with the three C’s: ice cold Chopp, caipirinhas, or straight cachaça." - Jonathan Nunn