"Chef Johnny Spero’s Georgetown restaurant rose from the ashes in February with a dramatic new look after suffering extensive fire damage in 2022 — just months after earning its first Michelin star. The tasting room has made some big changes, with a new seafood-centric menu and torched wood draping the dark new dining room. Modernist meals stretching 16 courses long ($255 now, going up to $285 in January) continue to draw culinary influences and techniques from Nordic countries, Japan, and Spero’s native Maryland. Some favorite dishes rose from the ashes and are featured on the new menu, including a savory porridge of crab meat buried under Carolina Gold rice and yolky egg." - Emily Venezky