"Kerala drunk food comes in three categories: stir-fried, deep-fried, and battered to an absolute crisp. Now that Preeti, the wife of the duo who owns Thattukada, is back in the kitchen, the restaurant can reclaim its crown as the queen of all three. Curries and roasts have a depth of flavour and spicing that belie their simple descriptions, and should be mopped up with crisp parottas or snow white appams. But it’s the legendary fries that are unmissable — half a chicken cut into segments then aggressively and skilfully fried with chilli and crispy onions, little netholi (anchovy) cooked and eaten whole, or battered mussels that pop thrillingly in the mouth." - Emma Hughes
