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"Opening in Noe Valley on Wednesday, June 26, this fourth Fiorella location at 4042 24th Street brings the chain’s wood-fired pizzas, seasonal pastas, and standout bar program — plus the familiar Bay Area toile wallpaper — while adding its own touches. I’d sit at the six-seat pizza bar to watch pies go in and out of the custom Italian oven and to sample pizza-bar-only bites like the panuozzo stuffed with mortadella and long hots. The menu leans into summer produce with items such as the Brentwood sweet corn pizza, crespelle di cannelloni (Florentine crepe pasta filled with Swiss chard, spinach, and ricotta), and roasted corn topped with Calabrian chile butter and pickled Fresno peppers. Much of the Sunset location’s brunch offerings are ported over, including French toast sticks dusted in cinnamon sugar, a carbonara pie with pecorino Romano, guanciale, green onion, and an egg, and a breakfast sandwich on a poppy seed bun with a “custardy egg,” melty American cheese, kicked-up Calabrian chile aioli, and a choice of bacon or breakfast sausage. Bar director Daniel Burns has installed a “spritz station” pouring 12 styles of spritzes (classic, house, or “ancient Roman” options), including a strawberry sbagliato house spritz made with strawberry-infused vermouth and a Conditum Paradoxum spiced, classical-style spritz with prosecco and red wine, honey, mastic, black peppercorn, saffron, and bay leaves; there are also low-proof options like the Passione Margarita, nonalcoholic choices, a long wine list by the glass or bottle, and seven beers. The space, designed by Studio, features the Bay Area toile and a “deconstructed gallery wall” plus midcentury Italian pop-art illustrations by Alyssa Rusin, and the restaurant will also offer a convenient to-go window; dinner service begins on opening week with lunch and weekend brunch launching Friday, July 5." - Dianne de Guzman