"The focus of the menu at this very serious ramen joint on Astoria’s main drag is a creamy 17-hour Hakata-style tonkotsu broth. Have it with the traditional additions, or better yet, order it “New York style”: two kinds of fish cake including one with the face of a monkey and its signature “fireball,” a loose meatball of peppery ground pork that subsides into the soup." - Robert Sietsema