A Surprising Vintage Wine Collection Is Hiding Inside West Oakland Barbecue Spot Stay Gold - Eater SF
"West Oakland’s Stay Gold Deli is known for its ribs, brisket, and sandwiches, as well as its laidback outdoor patio, perfect for enjoying a couple of beers. But what’s lesser-known is this: the restaurant also stocks a selection of vintage wines. There’s no formal list to peruse; instead, an employee can lead curious diners to a cellar where they can peruse the current selection of wines. A 1970 Robert Mondavi cabernet sauvignon, might be there one day, a Domaine Girard Malpère 2010 the next. Burgundies, Bordeaux, Riojas, sangioveses — it’s an eclectic list. And one that’s only available to those who pay attention to a little sign at the counter. “I like that people can feel like they’re getting something behind closed doors by simply going up to the register and saying, ‘Hey, I’d like to look at the secret wine cellar,’” Stay Gold owner Jason Herbers says. The wine list wasn’t always an open secret. When Stay Gold Deli first launched, Herbers says they had a formal wine program in place. But eventually, the team realized customers weren’t coming in to drink wine. Or, perhaps, the surroundings weren’t fancy enough, Herbers guesses. Whatever the reason, the wines became more of an IYKYK thing that Herbers updates from time to time, picking up bottles from purveyors whenever something catches his eye. There’s no overarching dogma to how Herbers collects wine for the cellar. He merely buys up whatever he thinks is cool, so the collection can fluctuate between 15 and 50 bottles. “The cabinet is there because it’s things that I enjoy and I make that available to my customers,” Herbers says. “Wine is about sharing and enjoying with people and if I find something good, I want other people to be put onto it as well.” Don’t expect a formal tour or tastings — or any of the hallmarks of a more “serious” wine spot. Herbers doesn’t keep an updated list of offerings — hence the necessary trip to peruse the bottles — and, while employees will be happy to pull something from the shelves for customers, Herbers says they won’t have an in-depth knowledge like a sommelier-led restaurant might. “It’s very, very not pretentious,” Herbers says, “but it’s a thing that you can access if you want to have a vintage bottle of really nice wine with your barbecue or your sandwich or whatever you’re eating.” In terms of pricing, Herbers says the bottles go for anywhere from $40 to $400; a 2016 Frederic Esmonin bottle that Herbers guessed may go for $160 at other restaurants recently went for $80. To get stuff out the door, Herbers sometimes sells bottles at cost. “We have stuff that we think is a real solid product you can get for 25 bucks that we think are fantastic,” Herbers says. “They might be something you’ve never heard of before, but it’s gonna pair fantastic with your food — and that’s why we have it.” In terms of pairing wines with Stay Gold’s menu, Herbers has some recommendations: the sangiovese wines go best with the meatballs, for instance, while he’d suggest a cabernet or Bordeaux with the brisket. Chenin blanc or chardonnays, meanwhile, go best with veggie dishes. The point, really, is about customers being open-minded enough to try something unexpected and new, Herbers says. “This is just my personal thing that I’m offering to the public,” he says. “And if they’d like to take advantage of it, they can. They’re welcome to take a look at the cellar and see what we have, and sit out and enjoy themselves.”" - Dianne de Guzman
