
7

"At Stay Gold Deli, I found a laid-back barbecue-and-sandwich spot known for ribs, brisket, and sandwiches with a relaxed outdoor patio perfect for a couple of beers — but it also quietly stocks an eclectic selection of vintage wines that’s more of an IYKYK thing. There’s no formal list; if you notice the small sign at the counter and ask, an employee can lead you to a cellar where the bottles (which fluctuate between roughly 15 and 50) can be perused — one day you might find a 1970 Robert Mondavi Cabernet, another a Domaine Girard Malpère 2010, alongside Burgundies, Bordeaux, Riojas, and sangiovese. Owner Jason Herbers curates the cabinet opportunistically, buying whatever he thinks is cool, and prices run from about $40 to $400 (he sometimes sells at cost — a 2016 Frederic Esmonin that might fetch $160 elsewhere recently went for $80). Don’t expect sommelier-style service, formal tastings, or an updated printed list — staff will pull bottles for you but won’t offer deep technical knowledge — and the overall vibe is “very, very not pretentious.” Herbers recommends sangiovese with the meatballs, cabernet or Bordeaux with brisket, and Chenin blanc or chardonnay with veggie dishes; if you’re open-minded and willing to ask, you can sit out on the patio and enjoy a vintage bottle with your food." - Dianne de Guzman