
5

"Located at the foot of a luxe new apartment building, this white-tableclothed spot marks a turn for the NYC-born group in D.C., swapping out sports for a snazzy supper club vibe under a squiggly ceiling, complete with caviar service and Veuve Clicquot kept cold in silver crocodile-shaped carafes. I start with fluffy Parker House rolls ($7) before Brussels sprouts studded with red pickled peppers and toasted nuts ($16). Crispy chicken and caviar—a party trick recently made famous by Rihanna—is done well here, topped with orbs of herbed buttermilk ranch; it’s giving Filet-O-Fish for grown-ups ($31). Colorful tomato concasse doused in Calamansi vinegar pairs well with pesto campanelle built with sun-dried tomato gremolata ($24), and the one-page menu brings back the Proper Burger ($23) that put its D.C. debut on the map in 2016. Dirty martinis arrive with extra portions on ice, and indulgent types can turn to White Sturgeon or Golden Osetra by the gram starting at $74, complete with all the trimmings (creme fraiche, doughnut holes, and egg). Christmas came early here: evergreens went up in early November, cranberry-dotted garland frames sage-green soft booths encased in year-round elephant ears, and in lieu of sports the big-screen Samsung TVs behind the bar showcase edgy art that Quentin Tarantino would like. Tenants upstairs are already regulars—as evidenced by an impromptu birthday party that came down in droves with a cake in tow—and a lacquered black piano that comes to life on weekends leads the way to a covered back patio prepped for holiday festivities." - Tierney Plumb