"Malek Simani is from Tehran, Iran, and opened this strip mall restaurant near Pierce College 25 years ago. Son David now runs the front of house. They cook stainless steel skewers on an open-flame gas grill. They typically offer an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet, but not during the pandemic. Royal Combo combines “everything”: beef tenderloin, chicken thigh, chicken koobideh (thigh), and beef koobideh (an 80/20 blend). David said they marinate the kebabs the “old school way” with yogurt, mayo, lemon juice, paprika, garlic, and “spices,” to savory, vivid effect. Plates come with hummus, salad, pita, grilled tomato and jalapeno, and saffron-stained basmati rice. Pay an extra $2 to upgrade to tart barberry rice." - Joshua Lurie