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"Chef Ricardo Zarate’s irreverent ceviche shack in Echo Park has quietly become an iykyk locals’ favorite — even luring Westsiders — for lip-puckering ceviches, Nikkei hand rolls, and an aji-spiked risotto de mariscos. In the dark, narrow room splashed with neon, the tiled interior evokes a gritty underground club; a fuchsia-lit piano alcove glows while couples claim two-tops or nestle at the bar, making it a prime date-night spot that’s just as fun for catching up with an old friend. Zarate, of Picca and Rosaliné fame, feels both relaxed and confident here, often behind the counter portioning out dishes himself. Scallop aguachile enraptured us, its tart aji base tempered by a dusting of sandy black pepper “ash”; rotating options include a serrano-flecked prawn aguachile, salmon tiradito dolloped with trout roe, and Peruvian-style ceviches with amberjack and rocoto leche de tigre. A separate section of Nikkei-style hand rolls offers even more variety — go for the one with crab, crispy rice, arare (rice crackers), avocado, and cucumber — while more filling plates like grilled octopus with confited potatoes and chorizo mousse and that aji-spiked risotto round things out; hot dishes such as pineapple-studded picanha steak appear, but it’s better to stick to the deftly dialed-in hand rolls, seasonal salads, and raw fish. Go the tasting menu route for $60, $75, or $100 to experience more of the menu. The restaurant doesn’t serve alcohol, but regulars know the fun doesn’t stop: canned THC drinks, non-alcoholic wines, and earthy purple corn iced tea topped with chopped pineapple and apples brighten it." - Nicole Fellah