"The owners recently traveled to Chengdu and returned with boxes of Sichuan peppers and other imports that meaningfully shape the menu; they bring a distinct, globally sourced touch to dishes. The chile crisp is singled out: "the chile crisp here is richly spicy and maybe my favorite I’ve had in the city, just powder keg stuff." A highlighted item is the cornmeal-paired wowotou, served as corn balls meant to be filled with a medley via a punchy stir-fry available with meat or tofu — playful, substantial and priced under $20 despite the work that goes into it. The reviewer calls the dish "sumptuous as hell." —Paolo Bicchieri" - Paolo Bicchieri