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"Architected into a purple, green, and gray mille-feuille tower, the duck liver mousse surprised me from the first bite: mulberry gastrique and caramelized onion jam help hold the structure together, while the shattering layers add a thrilling texture. The mousse itself is a rich, nutty indulgence, and the dish as a whole is stunning — hats off to chef Jack Irving and to this corner restaurant adding new history to its storied foundation." - Paolo Bicchieri