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"A sleek 12-seat omakase counter inside the historic Federal-American National Bank building, this downtown newcomer centers on a 20-course, $200 tasting with two nightly seatings (6 p.m., 8:30 p.m.). Led by Tadayoshi Motoa—making his first stateside stint after helming Spain’s one-Michelin-starred Toki—the experience begins with a compartmentalized platter of sashimi, shiokara, karaage, and chawanmushi, then six coursed pieces of nigiri finished with a paintbrush stroke of house-made soy (think squid/cuttlefish, lean tuna, marinated trout, scallop, and namerou). Warm tempura and a cup of dashi swimming with seasonal ingredients follow, then a parade of more nigiri like uni, marinated akami, and o-toro, capped by a refreshing, wobbling barley-tea gelatin dessert. He works with high-grade tuna flown in from Japan and two distinct shari recipes—one traditional with classic vinegar reflecting the ancient Edomae lineage and one modern vinegar—while Mediterranean influence shows in expertly sheared pickled cucumber subbing in for wasabi. A simple clam soup tells the story of his coastal hometown near Tokyo. The slim, light-wood setup sets a minimalist stage for theatrical, highly interactive service marked by a wide smile and laugh. Premium sake, wine pairings, and zero-proof options round out the menu, with ornate vessels on display and a list ranging from accessible unfiltered Nigori ($65) to the splurge-worthy Tsugu from Niigata ($850). Opposite the counter, a forthcoming Tatami Room offers a zen, communal nook, and reservations are available via Resy or OpenTable." - Tierney Plumb