"At a tasting-menu-only spot, Chef Joey Ward serves a deliberately absurd but successful hot-dog–inspired dessert: ice cream made by sweating Vidalia onions with Fripper’s all-beef hotdogs into the base, pureeing and straining it, then spinning it into an ultra-smooth soft serve with liquid nitrogen, piping it into hot dog–shaped molds and rolling it into a brioche bun. It's finished with mustard, slaw, and caviar and presented in a Varsity paper hat as an homage to the city’s classic dogs. The ice cream genuinely tastes of hot dog; the brioche holds everything together and the savory toppings add salt and umami notes—paired with a Moulin-à-Vent gamay, it’s a whimsical, chef’s-kiss oddity that surprisingly works." - Henna Bakshi