"New Yorker’s critic Hannah Goldfield files a dispatch from the Usual, the new Nolita fried chicken restaurant from LA chef Alvin Cailan. It’s the first full-service restaurant for the chef, who’s better known for egg sandwich shop Eggslut, and Goldfield “marvelled at the mountainous cragginess of the exceptionally thick, crispy crust, and at the carnal pleasure of the fat it had absorbed in the fryer, cut with a sprinkling of zingy Cajun herbs and spices.” The rest of the menu is unsurprising, she writes, but the fried chicken stands out." - Serena Dai
