"While Oliver’s owners say they’re celebrating the 1930s, Charlie Martin’s flashes forward a few decades to the ‘50s and ‘60s. The central difference between the periods is Prohibition’s end in 1933. Veteran Chicago chef Matt Williams, who worked at Hogsalt, helms the kitchen here, inside a space where restaurants like Marvel opened. Williams plays all the hits with an oyster bar (including a shellfish tower), crab cakes, and a whole-roaster Dover sole. There are a few steaks on the menu, from a dry-aged bone-in ribeye and steak frites. Partners Glenn Deutsch, Eric Fosse, and Audrey Fosse are city folks at heart, and though they opened in Winnetka, they say they yearned a return to Chicago. Eric Fosse also opened Guildhall in suburban Glencoe. Deutsch feels the restaurant’s “small, intimate environment” will resonate with diners. There’s a little mystery when visitors approach the entrance: “Once you walk, in you’ve found a comfortable place and unique environment.” There are 60 seats and plenty of red leather booths. The soundtrack is mostly jazz. The drinks are mostly riffs on classics. Charlie’s Martini is made with Sipsmith gin, St. George Basil Eau de Vie, Lillet Blanc, and extra virgin olive oil. Fosse is proud of the food, saying they’re weaving modern techniques into classic supper club fare. The result is “exceptional” he says." - Ashok Selvam
