Bàrbaro Taqueria

Chicago’s Essential Mexican Restaurants

"Step into this Humboldt Park haunt, and you might think you’ve stumbled into a bar in Coyoacán. Part watering hole, part street food haven, the menu has a way of making you second guess your latitude. You will find a few known favorites among the always-available options, like tostadas, gorditas, and enchiladas, and the sopes are memorable. Their masa — thick, fresh, and with just the right amount of chew — is the perfect vessel for a smoky chipotle tinga or your pick of any of the available toppings.  A short list of tacos includes asada, al pastor, and “campechanos”, which means they are a mix. At Barbaro, the mix consists of asada and the sausage known as longaniza, which is similar to chorizo with Spanish roots. And while I confess to being an al pastor purist, I must say that the restaurant’s take on this beloved dish did not disappoint. Among the specials, we were pleased to discover a pork torta baptized in a light tomato broth. The concept might be reminiscent of an Italian beef au jus dip — except here, the soaking has been done and calibrated for you. Don’t overlook the taco gobernador, a shrimp taco with cheese and peppers that can show up among their specials, too. Salsas are great. The drinks? The list is as creative and spirited as the place itself." - Brenda Storch, Eater Staff