"Olea’s vegan paella is a well-constructed argument against the dish’s necessity for meat. Since the Spanish rice-based showstopper is usually loaded with a mix of shellfish, chicken, and chorizo, Olea packs its plant-based alternative with seasonal vegetables ranging from zucchini to broccoli rabe, mushrooms, chickpeas, and leeks—all tied together with a saffron red-pepper sofrito, vegan garlic aioli, and an appropriately crispy bottom." - Emily J. Wilson