Kansha
Restaurant · Upper East Side
1312 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10128
Highlights
Nikkei cuisine fusing Japanese and Peruvian flavors, fresh fish
Nikkei cuisine fusing Japanese and Peruvian flavors, fresh fish
"Chef and owner Jorge Dionicio carries out ike jime himself and currently gets fluke flown in live from Japan because, as he puts it, “It’s hard to get bigger fish live. Fluke is small and flat so it’s easier.” Once processed, every fish ages differently depending on fattiness and technique; on a trip to Japan he tasted a one-month aged tuna and said, “It was good, funky, completely different from regular tuna,” adding that “It’s really up to the chef how long it ages.” At his restaurant he processes fluke as soon as he receives the shipment, then cures it whole, wrapped in kombu for up to two weeks, and finally makes ceviche with it. Reflecting on Peruvian tradition he notes that in his native Peru, “ceviche was about the flavor of the leche de tigre,” the pickling liquid of lime juice, onions, and chiles, “But I couldn’t find flavor in the fish. Now, the fish, even by itself, tastes good.” He also hears guests say, “This is so fresh!” and laughs to point out, “That’s actually one or two weeks old,” concluding, “The best fish isn’t the freshest fish.”" - Caroline Shin
"The city has birthed another omakase spot, but this one’s different. Kansha is Japanese and Peruvian, from a chef who studied in Tokyo and grew up in Peru. In addition to a $145 omakase—served at a counter made from a 100-year-old hinoki tree—the bi-level Upper East Side restaurant has an a la carte menu with ceviche, nigiri, and lomo saltado. We haven’t been here yet, but want you to know this spot exists." - Bryan Kim
"Restaurant specializing in Nikkei cuisine, fusing Japanese and Peruvian flavors." - Nadia Chaudhury
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