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"With a vibe like it’s been on the Lower East Side forever, this spot has, in less than a decade, shifted from buzzy newcomer to reliable neighborhood staple, greeting the neighborhood with roast meats hanging from the window and a plethora of celebratory dishes. Wonton soup, naturally, lives up to the name, featuring plump, carefully wrapped dumplings generous with filling, with Chinese broccoli providing a toothsome green accent. I like the roast duck in the Hong Kong-style lo mein, less saucy than many Western versions, with the glistening meat prettily fanned atop thin noodles; the lunch portion is plenty without forcing a solo diner to waste food. Salt-and-pepper shrimp are plump morsels fried impossibly crispy and jazzed up with a scattering of spices, peppers, and shallots, and from the dim sum menu, the simple steamed shrimp dumplings, with delicate, glassy skin, are a solid bet. It’s a reliable option for family-style dining and celebrations from New Year’s Eve to Lunar New Year, with an impressive variety of large-format dishes like whole Peking duck and stir-fried conch (call ahead to check the market price for items like chow chow-style crab). Bring a bottle or two—the restaurant is BYOB—and know that smaller parties are seated together at the larger banquet tables; regulars keep to themselves, but solo diners can always bring a book for more of an illusion of privacy." - Missy Frederick