Kansha

How a Once-Secret Japanese Technique Is Shaping New York Seafood Menus | Eater NY

"Chef and owner Jorge Dionicio carries out ike jime himself and currently gets fluke flown in live from Japan because, as he puts it, “It’s hard to get bigger fish live. Fluke is small and flat so it’s easier.” Once processed, every fish ages differently depending on fattiness and technique; on a trip to Japan he tasted a one-month aged tuna and said, “It was good, funky, completely different from regular tuna,” adding that “It’s really up to the chef how long it ages.” At his restaurant he processes fluke as soon as he receives the shipment, then cures it whole, wrapped in kombu for up to two weeks, and finally makes ceviche with it. Reflecting on Peruvian tradition he notes that in his native Peru, “ceviche was about the flavor of the leche de tigre,” the pickling liquid of lime juice, onions, and chiles, “But I couldn’t find flavor in the fish. Now, the fish, even by itself, tastes good.” He also hears guests say, “This is so fresh!” and laughs to point out, “That’s actually one or two weeks old,” concluding, “The best fish isn’t the freshest fish.”" - Caroline Shin