
4
"An expensive, highly accessorised Italian inside the Bulgari Hotel whose dishes are overloaded with luxury signifiers that mostly blunt rather than enhance flavour: items such as 'susci' and crudo arrive doused in extras (preserved truffle, ginger, taggiasca olives, pesto) that overwhelm the core ingredients. Mains and starters suffer from overreduction and clumsy plating—shortrib with farro 'risotto' is dolloped on without finesse, duck and foie gras ravioli leak a granular beige goo with an overly sweet marsala squeeze, and a black cherry tartufata comes across gritty and bland under shards of 'crispy milk' and sweet corn cream. The overall impression is exhausting, anodyne opulence with little personality or value for the price." - George Reynolds